A while ago, I saw a tutorial on how to create molds of purity seals out of Green Stuff so that you could keep making your own purity seals. I thought this was an excellent idea being that I play Black Templars and they like to stick those things all over themselves. So I needed lots of them.
I believe the original tutorial I looked at was on Portent maybe. But since I was working on it tonight, I thought I’d take some pictures and run through it for anyone who is interested, basically re-making the original in my own words and with my own little additions that I’ve found out about over time. But I can’t take credit for the idea. And I’m pretty sure this doesn’t break any of GW’s rules because there was something like this in a White Dwarf magazine about creating your own purity seals using a GS mold, but the way they did it sucked ass, this is better. So, anyway, here you go.
Mold Making Tutorial
First, get yourself some Green Stuff, a coin, some oil and something that has a hard flat surface. Green Stuff is available at most hobby shops, I use the GW stuff, just cause thats what I’m used to. Coin..well, there should be one in your pocket. I use vegetable oil because thats what I had available. I would have rather used olive oil because it tastes better and if I ever had a desire to eat my molds, it would be tastier. I used an empty spice container and poured some oil in there, that way I can keep it at my work desk without my mother blowing a gasket. As for a hard flat surface? I’m not sure, basically whatever you can find. I used a plastic coin I won at a painting competition (it was part of the prize, I could turn it in at the hobby shop for a free can of soda) and then used sandpaper to sand one side down til it was completely flat.
Oh, and of course you also need the original plastic purity seal or whatever your using. Without that you’re just going to have a nasty greasy green nickel.
The first thing you do is take an old paintbrush or a cotton swab and coat the hard plastic surface with oil. This will be your Squisher. Make a nice little ball of Green Stuff and place it on the coin in the middle. Don’t put any oil on the GS or the coin, the point of the oil is so that nothing will stick together, but you want the GS to stick to the coin, right? Then take your Squisher and..umm…squish the GS flat and even over the coin. You don’t want it to be too thin, because you’re going to have to have enough depth for the purity seal to set in it, so don’t Squish the hell out of it, just a nice even squish.
Now that you’ve got your mold GS coin thing done, re-coat your Squisher and the surface of the GS with oil. You don’t want the Squisher sticking to the GS when you do the Squishing. Place your Purity Seals (or any other small flat “one sided” bit) onto the GS. Usually I’ll take a toothpick and lightly press the Purity Seals into the GS a little bit so they don’t move around when you go to squish them, but you don’t have to do that. I’m just an anal bastard. Anyway, once you have the Purity Seals on the GS, squish it. Don’t get out of control, you’re just pressing the bit into the GS enough so that the GS surface is roughly flush with the back of the Purity Seals but even if you let the Purity Seals a little above the surface, it’s okay, you’ll just have a shallower PS when you get to making copies.
Go ahead and wash up your Squisher and leave the coin/GS and Purity Seals as they are for about an hour or two. If you try and take the Seals out too soon, it will mess up the image pressed into the GS cause it’s too soft. Let it harden a bit and once that happens, you can pop out the plastic Purity Seals. I’ll use the tip of my hobby knife or a tooth pick, doesn’t matter, just something small so it doesn’t mess up the mold while you’re trying to get the plastics out. I’ve heard some people say to leave them as they are over night so you’re sure, but I have never found that necessary. In fact, sometimes the plastic Purity Seals will get stuck in the Green Stuff if you let it get too hard…so an hour or two, carefully try and pop out the plastics and if they seem to come out easily, spiffy, but if not and it’s making indents in the GS, then stop and give it some more time.
It’s hard to see the plastic Purity Seals in the GS because the oil reflected the flash, but if you look closely, you can see the 4 PSs that I used.
Once you have your original plastic Purity Seals out, all you have to do is wait until the GS fully drys (I usually wait until the next day), then wash the oil off it. Now you’ve got a mold and it’s ready to start making Purity Seals!
These are some of the molds I’ve created. If you look at the top of the picture you can see two molds in white thingys. Those were a thin piece of small plastic piping that I cut in half. So because there was a curved flat surface, I was able to make molds of the parchments that hang off the shoulder pads and crotch area, the loincloth things. For a Squisher, I used the plug that went into the original piping, just a small plastic cylinder that was the perfect size to squish with evenly. I’m glad I figured out how to do that, I really wanted more of those things for my Black Templars.
And…that’s it! Easy, right? The whole thing takes about 3 minutes to do and you can easily make an assload of Purity Seals in an afternoon.
Okay, now you’ve got your mold, what the frick do you do with it? Make Purity Seals! Wee!
You’ll need your mold, your Squisher and a little ball of Green Stuff.
Coat the surface of the mold and the surface of your Squisher with oil. Place the ball of GS on the mold over the Purity Seal indent.
Squish it! Again, don’t go nuts, just make sure it’s even. You can go thinner with this because you’re not needed a thick enough layer to be able to fit a purity seal in, you’re only really needing enough GS to fill the Purity Seal hole. So you don’t need a whole lot of GS. Personally, I use a bit more GS than I know is enough, just in case it’s not enough. I don’t want to end up with a funked up Purity Seal. My Black Templars are pimps, they don’t wear shoddy accessories.
Wait thirty minutes, maybe an hour or so, then you’ll be able to pull the GS out of the mold. If you do it too soon, it’ll warp the shape of the Purity Seal because the soft GS has been pulled out, but if it’s hard enough when you pull it off, then you won’t have a problem. Set it aside and let it sit for some time (I usually leave it til the next day). Then, wash the oil off the GS Purity Seal piece, then come back to your mad laboratory and slice of the extra GS around the Purity Seal. You may have to shave down the back of the Purity Seals because they’ll come out too thick. If you’ve used more GS, then it’s harder to squish it down thin. It’s not a huge deal, just a pain in the neck having to shave the backs of itsy bitsy Purity Seals. I’ve had to do that often, like I said, I use a bit extra GS than normal, and I have no idea how I haven’t cut a finger off yet. Hopefully my luck will continue.
There’s some of the stuff I’ve made with GS and with a bit of time and effort you can pretty clearly see that the GS bitz look just like the regular plastic ones.